Tuesday, June 16, 2015

The Water Saga

With 13 sweaty Irish people attempting to survive 40 degree heat, sourcing water is definitely a priority. I met the landlady of our accommodation before the volunteers arrived and she agreed to organise a weekly delivery of drinking water for us. Feeling very smug at how easy it had been, I returned to the apartment a few hours before I had to go to meet the team at the airport expecting to find 50 litres of water and a dispenser.

Of course it wasn’t there. Neither was the landlady. Just a very helpful and bewildered young receptionist who responded to my frantic gestures with a cold glass of tap water and a smile. He eventually cottoned on to what I needed and offered to get me a bunch of 2 litre water bottles which I gratefully accepted. I collected the volunteers, got them home safely on our rickety mini bus and plied them with water and Diorolite in a desperate attempt to stave off dehydration, alongside airy promises that the water man would arrive tomorrow.
Of course he didn’t. Nor the next day. By the 3rd day I had finally cornered the landlady (literally cornered, I waited 40 minutes for her to come out of her office and caught her peeping out to check if I was still there.) I discovered that she had indeed rang the water man but as he had not answered the call she had been unable to order any. I asked her to please ring again and she fobbed me off on the poor receptionist with the fabulous line “He is the man you need. Well, not man. Boy.” She guffawed loudly to herself as she walked away under the icy gaze of his hate filled stare.
He was indeed the man we needed. He helped me to ring 3 different companies and eventually find one willing to deliver straight away. The first order they delivered they forgot to give us a dispenser, creating a perfect opportunity for a team building exercise in water-pouring. The 2nd order they didn’t give us enough water jars. The 3rd time they gave us 5 litre jars instead of 20 litres and informed us that we would have to rent our dispenser for 30 rupees a day. The 4th time they didn’t show up at all

I did some deep breathing and decided to buy a water purifier.

I went straight to the shop to buy the fanciest damn purifier I could find only to be informed that they were sold out. I arrived bright and early the next morning intending to pick it up before my meeting only to discover that the shop opens late on a Monday. I sat sweatily on the steps outside and fended off 2 tiny street kids, one of whom tried to distract me with his acrobatics while the other edged closer to my bag. Eventually the shop opened and I raced inside and pointed eagerly to the purifier I wanted. The sales assistant smiled at me, walked slowly and thoughtfully around the shop and informed me mournfully that there were none left.
I pointed frantically at the shop model and asked if I could buy that one. He paused to consider. Then he consulted a colleague. They both consulted a shop manual. I consulted my inner rage and held it at bay a little longer. Eventually they nodded in agreement and lifted my precious cargo down from the shelf. I breathed a sigh of relief and checked my watch: an hour and a half to get home, shower and make my meeting. No worries.

Then came the packing.  Oh dear Lord the packing. He very slowly took the purifier apart, lifted the Styrofoam out of the box, placed the purifier inside, then held the Styrofoam wonderingly up to the light as he attempted to remember how it fit in the box.
 Twenty minutes. That’s how long it took. Twenty minutes of peering into the box , lifting out pieces of the purifier, shaking his head, replacing the purifier and gazing perplexedly at the stryofoam again. I tried to interject with “No Styrofoam! Purifier is fine thank you, no styrofoam!” He responded with a languid “It is ok Madam, all ok. Styrofoam good to not breaking purifier.”

When he finally squashed the last lump of sodding Styrofoam into the blasted box, found his sellotape, taped it excrutiatingly slowly, searched for a scissors to cut the tape (it was in his pocket the whole time! Oh how we chuckled.) he then refused to let me take the box without a man to carry it for me. Weeping with frustration I begged and jumped for the box while he smiled benignly and beckoned several co-workers to help, all of whom widened their eyes in alarm and scurried away from the demented foreigner as fast as possible. When my white knight finally arrived (a spindly little bundle of nerves whose spine I could have snapped like a twig) I raced to the door as he staggered along behind me, his anxious little face hidden behind the box. I grabbed it before he could keel over, hefted it onto my sturdy Irish shoulders and was almost free when the security guard inquired “Bill Madam?”
I had forgotten that Indian shops require you to show your receipt at the door. I fished it out of my bag and thrust it eagerly towards the only obstacle between me and my freedom. He studied it thoughtfully, chewed his lip for a while and said “Shower gel Madam?” Initially bewildered, I remembered I had bought shower gel as well as the purifier. I attempted to explain that the inclusion of the shower gel on the receipt was clearly evidence that it had been paid for and thus negated the need to produce it for inspection. This met with a smile and “Shower gel Madam?” I shifted the weight of the box from one shoulder to the other and explained that I was in a rush, the shower gel was in the depths of my bag and I really had to go right now. At the final “Shower gel Madam?” I admitted defeat, plonked down the box and rummaged through the bag to produce the shower gel. An hour and 10 minutes after entering the shop I eventually succeeded in leaving with 20 minutes to get home, shower and make my meeting.
But of course, this is India, and what better day to have a taxi strike? I stood for 20 minutes gesticulating wildly at passing taxis until one driver took pity on me and called out “Strike Madam!” I clenched my teeth, rescheduled my meeting, got my best manual handling pose ready and staggered the 40 minutes back to the apartment in 42 degree sunshine.
Was it worth it? Hell yeah! Look at this baby! Take that dehydration!




Saturday, June 13, 2015

SIM cards,internet and much much paperwork.

So after endlessly reminding my volunteer team not to forget their passport photocopies and photos, I put mine safely in an envelope, placed it prominently on my table-and left it there. I spent a merry afternoon locating a photocopy shop and getting my passport photo taken by a very helpful man who kept telling me to look serious “But not so angry Madam.” One of the other coordinators John, went ahead of me to the post office. I went to find him, stuck my head in the door, and 40 Indians turned and pointed “He went that way Madam!” Good to know we’re blending in. :)

After a delicious break in an air conditioned coffee shop I set off with my fellow coordinators to buy an Indian sim card for my phone and a dongle for the internet. The 5 of us trooped into the Vodafone shop where we spent a perplexing hour and a half discussing our options with an employee whos' passion for unnecessary paperwork clearly outweighed her love of interacting with the public. After much polite smiling (me) exhasperated sighing and eye rolling (her) I finally persuaded her that purchasing a one year contract for a smartphone was not in my interests given that I’m going home in 3 months and have an 8 year old Sony Erickson.

Chuffed with myself for finally having my documents ready, I handed them over and filled out the form (which included a section to fill in my guardian’s name-my father, brother or husband. Be still my feminist outrage.) I then discovered that to purchase another sim card for my dongle I would need to fill out an identical form and hand in another passport photo, visa photocopy and passport photo copy. These were safely tucked away in my suitcase in my room. After many deep breaths and visualisations of soothing ocean sounds, I eventually got everything I needed only to be told it wouldn’t activate for 3 days as it was the weekend.

Nursing a migraine from repressed rage and burgeoning terror at the thought of repeating the whole ordeal with 12 tired, sweaty volunteers, I found an internet cafĂ©. Well actually I found 3. The first refused to let me in the door unless I gave him my original passport to hold as ID, the second smiled, ushered me to a seat and then informed me he was closed, and the third was a wonderful human being who gave me the gift of internet, no questions asked. I logged on joyfully to be told that Hotmail were blocking my account because someone was trying to log into it from India. I gave a sweaty shrug and spent a happy hour on Facebook reading lovely birthday messages from my wonderful   friends.

Lessons learned: 1.Indians love documentation. 2. I am not as patient as I thought I was. 3. It all works out in the end.
Sweaty yet serene.

First night in Kolkata.

I am too tired to process the sheer strangeness of the heat, noise, colour and movement that is Kolkata at night time. Instead, here’s a series of photos from my taxi ride from the airport to our guesthouse.

Chess tournament in the middle of an intersection. As we went past the older man on the right started shouting and flipped the board over very dramatically. I never got to see what happened next but I imagine it was eventful.




Bus, auto and car all honking furiously and ignoring eachother. The cacophony of beeps is actually quite melodic, you start noticing the rhythms and waiting for the next giant “HONK!” or bitchy little “meep meep meep.”

The traffic is so continuous, every time I tried to take a shot, someone would pull up alongside me. I have so many accidental photos of surprised Indians. This lady was not impressed.


 I love the horror movie vibe of this picture. It was a butchers-or meatshop as it’s more ominously called- and the guy stood up just as I took the photo.

Our journey took an extra hour as the taxi drivers got lost so we had a great tour of Kolkata. At one point they stopped to ask for directions at a restaurant and the owner tried to make us come in for a meal. Every time we stopped a huge group of locals would start a chain of information to try to figure out where we were going. When we eventually got out a crowd formed to make sure the drivers didn’t cheat us and charge us too much. It was a warm, friendly, chaotic introduction to India followed by a blissful, long overdue sleep.


Friday, June 12, 2015

Birthday Celebrations India Style

Birthday Celebrations India Style
So I turned 29 today- one step closer to 30! (As  everyone keeps kindly reminding me) It was weird having a birthday so far from home but the team spoiled me rotten. They made me a fabulous birthday card-as shown below-and bought me a funky bag to carry my mountains of Diorolite and teaching notebooks.

We went shopping in the market for appropriate clothes to wear to the schools as they are quite conservative, especially regarding women. No ankles or shoulders ladies! The clothes are so beautiful, I was like a kid in a candy shop trying on kurtas, dupashas and saris.(I know what all of those are now.). Had a great time haggling in the market as well, learned some handy Bengali phrases which I’ve been trotting out smugly at every opportunity.
How much?...... Koto dam?                     Please……….Kharap                                                                 Thank you…….Dhonyabad                       Don’t rip me off Mr!............Dada, beshi neben nah!

We went out for dinner to celebrate in style and got kitted out in our fabulous new outfits. The food-oh the food! I can’t stop eating, everything is so delicious. A dinner of paneer tikka masala, rice and garlic naan cost 220 rupees-that’s about 4 euro. The street food is gorgeous and so cheap-14 rupees for a bowl of lentils with bread, 45 rupees for a chicken egg roll (soooo good) 20 rupees for a samosa. 65 rupees is 1 euro so if I want to be sensible I can spend about 2 euro a day on food, if I get extravagant it’ll be about 5 or 6 euro. Love India!


Rocking our kurtas.

Wednesday, May 27, 2015






Coordinators are go!


I'm sitting in Abu Dhabi airport trying hard not to buy tiny golden camels and contemplating a foot massage. Ah the hard life of a volunteer! We fly to India in 4 hours and then have a week to get our heads into Kolkata mode before the rest of the volunteers arrive all shiny and new and excited.My to do list thus far: Meet Vikramshila partners, meet landlord, set up electricity and wifi for the house,order water supply for the house, stock upon food, buy a fridge, locate the local hospital, gp and police station, accompany the lovely coordinator Meghan on her 4hr train ride to the Sunderbans, buy sensible local clothes, plan teaching session, plan team induction, panic and perspire.
India-here I come!